Last Days in Vienna (Part 2)

Vienna, for me, will always mean change, growth and adventure.  Time and time again I come back to that city in my writing.  It is the milestone by which I measure so many aspects of my life.

While my German only marginally improved in 2007 I found my outlook largely altered.

My hopes and ambitions instantly changed - I had intended to concentrate on History and English for my BA but Vienna changed that.German became my goal.  I dreamt of writing my own krimi, of a flat tucked away on the Viennese backstreets and bi-linguial conversation.

Vienna influenced my subject choice and thus influenced my life choices - I went to Munich in 2008 as part of the Erasmus/Socrates programme.  I studied at LMU München and fell in love.  Vienna did that for me - I may as well have gone another way.

I wanted to get back to Vienna.  I had heard of the Language Assistant Programme.  Whilst researching my MA I applied to the programme.  A few months later I received a letter.  I was warned that may not hear anything else until late Summer.  Sure enough this was the case.
I got an e-mail in July notifying me of my placement and urging me to contact with my school.
I carried out these instructions with zeal writing a letter in English, German and an e-mail graciously accepting the offer.

I got back to writing my thesis.

I moved to Vienna on September 21st.

It was a difficult journey, physically it was straight forward, emotionally I had doubts and second thoughts but I charged forward.  This was my city and I had waited years to get back.  Here, I was.  I should't mope.

Last Days in Vienna (Part 1)

When I was in Ireland that first week of December I decided I would not come back to Vienna.  For various reasons I do not want to go into here I believed it better to remain in Ireland after the Christmas break.

At first I was a little reluctant-I did not want to leave this city that offered so much, a city I could feel at home in, a bizarre mix of bohemian cosmoplitanism.  True, at times it frightened me and I felt an alien here because my language was not up to scratch.  However, I also learned a great deal about myself with much previously taken for granted called into question.

Vienna had been my epiphany.
In truth I expected nothing less.

When I first came to this city, many moons ago in 2007, I was a 'new' man of the world.  I had seen so little abroad and it was my first time truly alone.  Without friends, without family it was something altogether new for me but I was determined to attend this IKI sprachkurs and improve my German.
It was quite possibly some of the best weeks of my life.  I met many interesting people, some of them I am still in touch with, people who opened my mind.  Young people from the world over.  People like me.  Curious, hungry and maybe a little naive.

I learned about countries I had hardly heard about, challenged notions I carried of those I had and encouraged me to think about my own homeland.

A weekend at home, Toy shows and school holidays

2 December - 7 December

A flight from Bratislava to Dublin

Annual televised Toy Show

Flight to Vienna

Church/School holiday

Opera etc.

I was worried. My roster had me penciled in for two Friday classes even though I was told I would never have a class on that day, a courtesy granted by the school.  I already had a minor confrontation with my betreuungslehererin having asked for the Monday off.

I was scolded.

I was threatened.

And all this drama unfolded in the teacher's lounge as we celebrated a colleague's birthday.  I thought it was unprofessional and a little bit awkward!

I was offered cake.

I made no apologies.

In the end I was released with a warning and cautioned that the powers in the bm:uk might come after me if they caught wind of my plans.  I doubted they would.

I was reliably informed Mondays were my busiest day.  After that weekend I believe I had 3 Mondays off in a row.  Funny that.

The weekend in question, 2/12/11-5/12/11 I was flying from Bratislava to Dublin.  Some weeks before I had taken the precaution of purchasing tickets from the International Bus station at Erdberg.  A return ticket set me back €20.

I was unimpressed with the price and the rising costs and ended with my angry resolve that my endeavours to save money were often fruitless, especially my attempt to secure cheap flights which were mounting similar deficits as if I had just chosen the basic and common option i.e. Aer Lingus. It was a tough lesson learned and I stowed it where I stowed all other useful information somewhere in the deep dark recesses of my memory. As I was worried about my spontaneous Friday classes and because I was reluctant to enter into further confrontation with my school I went back to the bus station in the hopes that I could change my bus times. The lady was very accomodating even speaking in English, however, it soon emerged that while I could change my bus departure time I would be late for my flight. I left it as it was and shuddered and trembled at the thought of having to beg my teacher master overlords for their understanding and possible forgiveness, as it were my worry was for nothing. The next day I went into school my Friday classes were scratched out. On Thursday I got my hair l cut. It was a strange and unique experience-the first time I had my hair cut abroad. The guy, an energetic and enthusiastic Turk, gave me a Biff style haircut straight out of Back to the Future! I had mixed feelings but I was told that I "grew into it".

My friend Anne visited she was passing through Vienna. We had a few chats and drinks but ended up in O'Connor's Old Oak Pub drinking cauliflower soup. The next day I had to make my way to Erdberg I got on the bus pulled out my book and sat back and relaxed as we powered toward Bratislava. Bratislava airport is a wonderfully modern building and a little anachronistic if I am honest. I loitered bought some coffee lingered a little longer before I went through security. The flight was okay (tea was expensive) I landed in Dublin some three hours later and to schedule. I got picked up at the airport and made my way to Skerries. That night the annual and a luttle famous Toy Show was broadcast on RTE. It almost always offers a few good laughs. It was satisfactory but nothing especially good or memorable :)

I had a nice quiet weekend with my girlfriend with plenty of lazy tv and filming. I returned to Vienna Monday. I got a taxi to Dublin airport and began my journey. Bratislava airport was buzzing with activity. I missed my bus. I bought a coffee and sandwich and pondered my options. I found another cheaper bus leaving for Vienna. The bus driver seemed a little confused when I explained my predicament his attitude changed abruptly when I waved the money in my hand.

It was close to 8 o'clock Austrian time when I got back to Vienna. I got a text from my friend Jon. We agreed to meet for grub. Jeanine got in touch in the meantime and agreed to come along. We went to Kolar and just by chance bumped into other friends. After we moved on, our little entourage split, some went for karaoke others for coffee. We met Dietlinde and her dancing friend on Stephansplatz and suss out an open cafe. We found one near Graben the establishment's name now eludes me. We had some caffeinated beverages and Mozartkuche, topped with chats and discussions. We parted ways and agreed to rendezvous later in the week. Thursday was the Feast of the Assumption so we had a shorter school week than normal. However, the next day, Tuesday, was business as usual.

 Kirsten and I had talked about the abundance of cultural opportunities in Vienna. We both agreed at last that when in Vienna one ought to go to the opera. Some TAs had already gone to see 'La Bohéme'. Sadly several others had either seen this masterpiece or were otherwise engaged. We arrived and waited for the sought after stehplatz. €3 they cost. It was an amazing show. The opera was both atmospheric and haunting although it was a test of endurance to race between the action on stage and the translation drifting across the little monitor hanging from the railing beneath me. I was able to divide my attention adequately and learn the minimum amount of information to form a coherent story. We went to Flanagan's after and as the group refused to meet there we moved on to Beer and Songs and began our weekend of social escapedes.

Baby Blues

31/1/2012
Since I have gotten back I have been meaning to tidy my room.  I am not a neat freak but neither am I a slob or compulsive hoarder.  However, stuff just builds up and sometimes it is junk. 
I share a room with my older brother.  There are two beds, two wardrobes & a kind of mirrored dressing table drawer thing.
I tend to put most my books & dvds in boxes (those that do not fit on my shelf) & slide them under my bed.  It does not exactly provide easy access but it is a temporary solution for a long term problem.
Books, games and dvds have come to take up a substantial amount of space spreading from the mirrored chest of drawers to the wardrobe.
I had ignored the problem for quite some time but it was grinding me down.  In the end I resolved to tackle of rubbish and items I had deposited in the mirrored drawers. 
I found letters from 2006, bank statements from 2009.  I dug a little deeper and found copies of our school annual 'Venture'.  There were photographs from the Oxigen festival 2006, Vienna Sprachkurs 2007, trinkets from Australia 2008.  Postcards and mementos once lost, embued with immense sentimental value power reduced to clutter.  It was quite sad. 
I found letters from my University, my birth certificate, baptismal certificate & lo and behold two items of significant merit. 
There in the back right hand corner of the drawer I found a little record book, blue in colour detailing a list of vaccinations I had received and beside it, perhaps most poignant of all, lay a little transparent plastic bracelet that hospitals use to tag and identify babies.  It's miniscule petite appearance struct a chord.  How.humbling it was to hold this item in my hand, again.  It read :
Baby Carragher
27-11-1987
10:45am
Twenty four years later returned to its rightful owner.  I placed the collection of items in a single brown envelope.  Making things easier, simple even for any future identity thief.
It is a funny feeling to find yourself
reduced to paper and plastic I thought to myself as I burned past payslips and correspondence.

My Viennese Birthday

My Viennese Birthday          27/11/2011

I had begun my birthday at Downstairs munching on a schinken käse sandwich and a thoughtful phone call from Miriam at 1:00am (midnight Irish time).  We went on to have a wild night of karaoke before Alan, Sam and I made it back to Simmering.

Having managed snare a few hours of well deserved sleep we were to meet Kirsten in Café Prückel for brunch.   Having relished the medicinal properties of tea we set off in the direction of the café.

At the U3 stop we met Kirsten.  Typical of a Sunday morning the café was packed to capacity.  We lingered for a while waiting for an opening that we could perhaps wedge into.  We managed to capture a little round table.  I ordered a Wiener frühstuck.  We were, however, a little concerned.  We would have to find a means of expanding our space so that there would be sufficient room for other guests

We were in luck

A large table across the way was vacated and we quickly went about fortifying our position.  A short while later Jeanine floated across the floor chirpy and fully refreshed.  We responded with a tired ‘hello’.  The Kellner emerged a little confused and wandered around with our breakfast before we wagged him down directing him to our new location.

We chatted about events from the night before and then, Jeanine presented me with  marzipan kartoffeln.

There is nothing quite like it, the sweet, soft sustenance extracted from a marzipan kartoffel. 

We had our breakfast then huddled ourselves together and considered the various options open to us.  The lads were heading back to their respective abodes for a cat nap.  That left Kirsten, Jeanine and myself to wander the Viennese streets.

We said our goodbyes and leaving the lads at the U-bahn station we marched on around the Ring.  I think at this stage the time was 1300.

Either we had loitered a little too long or it was a poor reflection upon the breakfast we had eaten but we were already thinking of our next meal.  Jeanine had a craving for potatoes. 

We held on until we came across TGI Fridays.  Here, we decided we could go on no longer and entered the premises hoping to eat an adequate meal.

We did just that.

Afterwards we continued on our walk, chatting and pondering upon the mysteries of the universe. 

We decided to browse the Weihnachtsmarkt.

I bought some lebkuchen.

I kept an eye out for marzipan kartoffeln but it seems to me that the Viennese just aren’t that pushed on almond potatoes.  It is a shame really.

Jeanine was kind enough to buy me a candy cable.

I savoured the sweet sweet sugar.

The three of us walked around and pawed various items while we reminisced about our childhoods.

As the night crept upon us and the sunlight faded the temperature also dropped.  It was quite nippy out.  We found ourselves at another crossroad of possibility.  What do we do with ourselves now?

As it was my birthday I felt like a trip to the cinema.

Sadly, Kirsten felt she ought to prepare some school lesson plans.

Jeanine was torn.

On the one had she had plans to spend the evening at the gym, but on the other hand, I was sulking and moody, as I bopped on the footpath, asking someone to accompany me to the cinema.

In the end, Jeanine agreed to come along.

We walked Kirsten to the straßenbahn stop and we parted ways.

Then, there were two.

Jeanine and I walked to the Kino which was only a stone’s throw away from Museumsquartier.  We descended the steps and purchased our tickets.  The film we chose to see was ‘Anonymous’ because I was intrigued by its premise but also because Jeanine declined to watch ‘Tintin’ with me.

We were early so we sat on some seats and chatted for a while.

I found a gigantic box of used posters.

Being of a curious disposition I dipped into the two boxes.  We leafed through the various rolls searching for a decent poster or a decent film.  I was shocked to find that the cinema was giving away these posters free of charge!

After a brief perusal I soon understood why.

The posters were especially rubbish.

The best that I could find were a collection of ‘Puss in boots’ illustrations.

I determined the best of a bad lot rolled them up and took them with me but not before I tried to coax a few upon Jeanine.  She was not that way inclined.

We watched the movie, an interesting and clever little flick speculating on the true identity of William Shakespeare.

The film lasted about two hours so it was still reasonably early when we made our exit and braved the outside cold once more.  Finally, Jeanine had to accept her responsibilities and left for home to complete those dreaded lesson plans. 

I had Monday off.  I was feeling a little bit lonely and melancholic.  I felt it was a little too early to wander back to my flat alone and on my birthday.

Dietlinde had returned from her trip to Linz so I made my way to Schottentor for a final visit before I bid an end to this my 24^th birthday.

Dietlinde welcomed me with open arms.

We sat for a bit and chatted.

We drank tea.

We chatted some more.

I offered her some posters.

She declined (I myself thought the posters were amazing I have no idea how so many people could resist the charms of a furry hero clad in boots).

I checked my watch and resolved to call my mother.  I had not called home in over a week.  I understand that some people had not communicated with home in over a month but I was feeling a little sorry for myself.

I bid farewell to Dietlinde and we agreed that the gang ought to meet the day after.

I gathered up my rucksack and posters and walked to Herrengasse where I took the U3 back to Simmering.  I made another cup of tea (caffeine addiction?) and sat down to my laptop to call home.  It was after midnight but it was still November 27^th in Ireland.

My mother relayed to me birthday wishes from home and promised that birthday cards were on the way.

Thanksgiving and Birthday surprises

16 November - 27 November 2011

So, my birthday was coming up, and as I often do at this melancholic time of year, I complained about the bullish and determined march of time.
Another year had gone by and I pondered how far a soul may have stumbled.
My last birthday I had spent in Munich as my girlfriend had kindly booked us flights and accommodation to see (again) the beautiful Christmas markets.
It was amazing yet equally tearful because as wonderful as it was, and while we may have walked and dined in those familiar places plucked from our memories, it was still different.
Or rather I was different I was a few years older and I was keen to commemorate this by sulking and being generally grumpy.

This year in Vienna was no different!
Added to this annual trauma was the infamous American holiday of 'Thanksgiving' that was determined to steal my thunder complemented by the emergence of several silver hairs.

My girlfriend asked me what I was planning.
I did not know.
My friends asked what I was planning.
I did not know.
I was open to suggestions but at times I expressed feelings of general indifference to the approaching milestone.

Dietlinde had volunteered herself to host a Thanksgiving meal and safe in the knowledge that she never fails to produce a tasty and satisfying dish we jumped and down with glee, licked our lips, rubbed our bellies and gave her all manner of encouragement.
This was an opportunity not to be missed.
Dietlinde suggested Thanksgiving day itself for the meal which was Thursday 24 November.

Once at karaoke in Charlie P's I had asked a few friends for suggestions on what I could do to celebrate.
They listed off many bars and cafés.
I am not one for organising.
When I try to organise things fall apart quicker than a Vegas wedding.
After many years of trial and error and error I had resigned myself as a follower.
In the past I would sheeply suggest we, my friends and I, go out for drinks and if I was fortunate enough to have a birthday on a drinking day I found people to oblige.

I decided then, that I would organise a night out on Friday 25 November.
We agreed this to be a general social night for TAs and overall it seemed acceptable that something close to celebrations could be had.

However, just as things were looking up there was a postponement.  Dietlinde announced that she was moving Thanksgiving dinner to Friday.

I was none too pleased but being the gent I am (and modest too) I complied.
Thanksgiving was to be celebrated Friday night.

I moped about until Friday people asked what I had planned I simply murmured a response or typed a cryptic one.

On Friday afternoon I had a text conversation with Kirsten.
She too although belatedly had been invited to Thanksgiving dinner.
Dietlinde had suggested a time, I believe it was somewhere around 1830.
I think I left my flat at this time.
My bahn came late as I stood relegated to the sidelines once again I text an apology to Dietlinde-she didn't seem to mind.

When I finally reached Dietlinde's flat I rang the doorbell.  Erol, a fellow TA out in Wieselburg, was coming behind me.  He was chatting on his phone.
I waited for a response to the doorbell-there was none.
Erol had finished his conversation at this time an we exchanged greetings.
I rang the bell again.
This time Dietlinde answered and the lock was released, we breached the dark hallway and mounted the stairs.
The door to the flat was slightly ajar.

I walked in.
The corridor was empty.

Dietlinde and Jeanine leapt from hiding blowing party poppers and screaming,
'HAPPY BIRTHDAY!'

Slow to catch on I calmly replied,
'But it's not my birthday until Sunday.'

Slower still I received welcoming hugs from all guests already in attendance until it emerged, or rather until it was explained to me that Thanksgiving was a ruse.
This dinner was in fact my surprise birthday party.
Ain't that nice?
I never had one of those before and I found myself a little embarrassed.
I am indebted to my friends.

We dined high and after a delicious dinner and cake we moved on to Café Rosa. 

At the café we were greeted with chorus of cheers as a large congregation of TAs had assembled.  Vic kindly presented me with a 'desperados' t-shirt and a teabag. 

We chatted, had a few drinks and hugs before we decided to move on.  The café was closing at midnight.
We decided on Club Berlin.
And that is where our night ended in the small hours.

Saturday 26 November

Erol and I went for a walk around the Rathaus Weihnachtsmarkt, picking through items and dropping them back.  The sellers watch with eager anticipation keen to help to flog their produce.
We paused handling the items teasing the sellers before sighing and moving on.

Erol who had made plans for Krampus leaves me and we parted ways. 

I return to my flat a little tired. 
Dietlinde has gone to Linz but Jeanine agrees to meet up later.  Kirsten, who partied till the point of exhaustion, preferred a quiet day of rest.

Jeanine and I agreed to meet for lunch/dinner.  Schnitzel was on the cards and I do like Schnitzel.
With much ado I finally rendezvous with Jeanine and a friend.

Alan and a pal of his Sam meet us at the busy Schnitzelwirt.
We had already been told way our dish would be by the Kellner (i.e. Schnitzel und Kartoffelnsalat), not that I was complaining it was indeed a tasty dish.

Alan managed to resist the many advances and charms of the rugged rogue waiter despite his encouraging words and affirmative shoulder pats.

While we were told what our dinner would be the lads could not get the attention of the Kellner.  In the end they gave up cracking open cans of red bull knock-off.  No one battered an eyelid.

We hung out for the day.

We bought some krapfen.

Jeanine wanted to go to the pictures to see the newTwilight movie.  None of us gents felt we deserved to endure this gruelling punishment we backed off but agreed to meet later.
We did not.

I accompanied the lads to Wien Mitte and we wandered back to Simmering where they deposited their luggage.

We had tea as is the custom, browsed the net and shared jokes.  Alan introduced us to his cousin's blog and the many adventures they undertook all weird, whacky and wonderful.

We left to meet Jeanine.
On the bahn I received a text from Jeanine.  She was sorry to say that Twilight had drained her emotionally and physically and that she would be unable to commit to aforementioned and agreed plans.  We were all a little upset about this and we spammed her for a bit.  But only for a little while.

We were off in search of friends amd destination our numbers were thinning but we were determined.
We met with others at Downstairs cocktail bar.

After dishing out some minor insults we drank some, the birthday girl left at 0100 for the get together was hers, we stayed on.  Chatted some more and ate some more until Alan decided he had a craving for karaoke.

He whipped out his phone and after much searching amd backtracking we find the establishment Sing your song.  It was choco-block.  Also, alarmingly it looked as if a hen party had infiltrated the premises.

Alan and Sam sang several German and Austrian songs much to the pub's amusement.  Sadly the duet Alan and I performed of unbreak my heart received a damning boo hiss.

We left a second night of celebrations under the belt and slept soundly. 

Kirsten had arranged birthday/Sunday brunch at Café Prückel.

Leopoldfest and Klosterneuberg

Klosterneuberg 15 Nov. 2011

The famed festival of Leopold is celebrated in Vienna and some of the surrounding areas on November 15^th.  Who is Leopold you might ask?  Well, he is a man commemorated at a time of harvest, and grants the good people of Vienna a holiday but it seems he was not a clergyman but perhaps a reverent man nonetheless.

I had heard a little about this strange holiday.

There was an abundance of stories, tall tales and lies as to what was to take place.  Rumours floated around as to the local and traditional habits.

Some of my colleagues painted fantastical images of barrel rolling and similar shenanigans.  

We agreed to check out the scene and ascertain what exactly this festival involved, as we had a day off school anyway we might as well make use of our free time.

On Monday November 14th there was a small get together at Charlie P’s and some fantastic covers delivered by those hidden stars within our TA group (making use of our free time).

The morning after, I felt a little sluggish but after a bowl of porridge and a mug of tea I was feeling a little better and eager for our midday trip out to Klosterneuberg where we anticipated a day of madness and laughter.  In my mind,  although  I kept my private thoughts to myself, I imagined us stepping off the train and dodging gigantic wooden barrels that thundered down the hill and crashed into unsuspecting mopers disembarking the train.  It would be horrific.  I fretted tripping over the unconscious bodies of those who had arrived earlier equally oblivious to the assault that awaited them.

But at the risk of being ridiculed I said nothing and kept my worries to myself.

We made our way to Franz Josef Bahnhof and purchased our tickets.  While we waited for Jeanine, we bumped into fellow TA, Beau.  Beau had also heard rumours and sought confirmation and closure for his own records.

After a short trip through the countryside we arrived at our destination.  We had been reliably informed to simply ‘follow the crowds’.  There was a thick and obscure fog that morning.  I felt it added to the atmosphere.

We felt around for a bit.  There was quite the carnival ambience, with stalls of games as well as sweet foods and fast food and of course, punsch and gluehwein.  We circumnavigated the carnival, flicking through the stalls, pausing to sample some cheese and other items and checking items of clothing.  I bought some braces.

Beau tried his hand at the claw machine and won Jeanine a beautiful little teddy.  To be fair he should have won several more but he was robbed.  That man has some skills, if ever there was someone who had to have their finger on the button, Beau is your man.

I bought a marzipan spud.  It was a strange little cake that had chocolate, cream and marzipan.  Not what I had come to imagine these confectionary treats to be but it was nice, still tasted good.

Jeanine persuaded me to go on one of the rides and as it looked like we had almost our fill for the day I gave in.

I had not been to a carnival or amusement park in years not since Oktoberfest in 2008.

At Oktoberfest, I braved the Frisbee.  This was exciting for all of 20 seconds.  Then, I had my fill of park rides.

Until now, and they say chivalry is dead.

Jeanine and I ventured over to the ticket seller.  Dietlinde and Beau took a step back offering smiles of encouragement while they readied their cameras.

It cost €3 for a ticket.

We stepped up and boarded the ride. 

We sat down on the Big Wave ride.

There was no turning back.

I felt my pulse quicken.

I watched as other adrenaline junkies stepped up to the mark.

Most of them were kids, I felt my heart quiver in fear for them.

The bars came down and slowly the ride began to build momentum.

The first few circles were bearable but as the speed increased I felt my stomach tear from my abdomen.

My rear lifted from the seat and I was sure, in those milliseconds I was certain I would meet my end.

There were times, I heard Jeanine speak but it was a distant whisper compared to the clatter in my head.

It felt as though the ride last 10 minutes.  It felt more but I would have to make a conservative estimate of 10 minutes.

After 30 seconds I wanted off.

When it slowed to a halt I was relieved that neither I nor any of the other riders had died.  My heart skipped a beat.

I struggled to my feet and limped over to the gang a brave look upon my face.

The camera, I was sure, would have captured every second of my ordeal and there on digital file would be the many anguished faces I displayed.

As luck would have it they were all blurred.

After that the gang bought some wurst and we were on our way.

Well, after some quizzical wandering and a few inquiries we found the infamous barrel rolling.  However, after some queuing, nature calls and loitering we agreed (on principle) that none of us were to part with the cost to participate.

We waited for the train but agreed to meet later for dinner.

Our adventure had provided answers to questions previously posed but I couldn't help but feel a little disappointed that my nightmarish idea of Leopoldfest was nothing of the sort.  Still, it was a fun day and I had my braces.

The next day it was business as usual.