I was underwhelmed at first and perhaps burdened with my thesis but I fumbled blindly around the city for 4 days before moving on to Graz. I was eager to make my mark and set about meeting, greeting and trying to make new friends. I think I succeeded with relative success.
Back in Vienna I was ready to get stuck in and start my new life. As an aspiring writer I loved the artsy scene, the theatre and the opera. And the city of the Third Man.
I loved the history of this city; centre of the Holy Roman Empire, home of Freud, a hotspot for Cold War espionage and the list goes on.
There was plenty here to muse on, histories, legends and myths fermenting in my mind. I was particularly intrigued by the story of the 'Wild Geese' in Austria. I often commnted on how the four horsemen guarding Maria Theresa were all Irish. Emigrants or refugees, asylum seekers or mercenaries you decide. These men built a life in Austria making a substantial military contribution to its stability and prosperity. The last recipient of the prestigious Military Order of Maria Theresa, Banfield, was a descendent of these Wild Geese. He was commended for his gallant efforts as a navy pilot during the First World War.
I wondered about myself and how, if at all, I might fit into this tradition as a young Irishman abroad. There was sorrow but dignity there. Yet, for all their efforts these men remain largely unknown. For Austrians, I suppoelse it was not a big deal to have 'foreignors' fight in their army after all their Empire stretched across many borders, uniting several ethnic groups. It certainly was not uncommon for Irishmen to seek fame, fortune or simply a better life abroad.
Over time I learned how to behave in the social scene in Vienna. I had a four day week at school so my weekends started on Thursday. There was often a dinner, shin-dig or box social to be had, usually at Dietlinde's flat - the most fabulous apartment I have ever seen.
We dappled with a movie night for a while and brunch became a regular occurrence. As did coffee dates, chats and general rendezvous.
I have often fondly nourished memories of lounging in these cafés sipping coffee or some variation of tea, with my friends. Most of my memories of Vienna seem to be of dining and drinking but thankfully on all occassions surrounded by good company. A man cannot live on food alone after all and conversation feeds the soul.
I relished chat of stuff and junk.
We floated between cafés: Prückl, Rosa, Weltcafe, Wirr, Kleines Café, Cafe Central, sampling the melange, the cake and other dishes. Some were classic Viennese Kaffeehaus (Cafe Central) with while others were modern (Cafe Rosa).
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